Facial skin care is often a major headache, given the wide range of products available these days. And then there are the ingredients labels, which are full of many different substances that have no clear effect on the skin. One of the ingredients that is often found and discussed in skincare products is retinol. It is safe to say that in order to incorporate products with this ingredient into your routine, you should first of all get to know it thoroughly. Read on to find out what it does, how to use it correctly and whether it's right for your skin.
What is retinol?
Retinol is a form of retinoid, a skincare ingredient derived from vitamin A. It differs from the more potent retinoids in that it is readily available - it can be bought without a prescription. It is available in serums, gels, creams and lotions.
How does it work on the skin?
First of all, small retinol molecules penetrate deep into the skin. Once in the dermis, the middle layer of the skin, the molecules help neutralise free radicals. This helps to stimulate the production of elastin and collagen, resulting in a 'plump' effect. This cosmetic ingredient can improve the appearance of the skin in the following aspects:
- Reduce and smooth fine lines
- Combat enlarged pores
- Improve skin texture and tone
- Help fight rashes and their residual scars
When it comes to the benefits of retinol for the skin in the fight against skin ageing, there are two main factors to consider: improved skin cell turnover and increased collagen content in skin.
It's no secret that as we age, the body's various processes slow down and the skin's regeneration process - the ability to shed a layer of dead cells - slows down, which can cause the skin to look plump and saggy. Retinol serums or other products containing this substance help to speed up this cell turnover process, resulting in a brighter, more even complexion. The visibility of fine lines and wrinkles is also reduced. This ingredient is able to penetrate deeper into the skin to stimulate collagen production and reduce the amount of enzymes, including collagenases, which are able to break down collagen fibres.
As is well known, retinol for the face increases skin cell turnover and reduces sebum production, while increased cell turnover prevents dead skin cells from clogging pores. Thus, this ingredient helps to keep pores clean by reducing the accumulation of skin cells, which also helps to fight skin rashes. It can also reduce acne-related changes in skin texture and colour.
Although this ingredient is often used to treat acne and associated scarring, extremely severe rashes are usually treated with prescription retinoids in combination with other medications that help fight inflammation and bacteria.
HELPS FIGHT HYPERPIGMENTATION
Retinol skin products can help fight hyperpigmentation by stimulating skin cell turnover, which results in a noticeably more even skin tone when new skin cells are formed.
This ingredient also reduces the appearance of dark spots caused by the sun's harmful UV rays by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme that promotes the production of melanin in the skin. So, as we can see, this ingredient can not only help to even out the skin tone, but at the same time it can help to protect the skin from further environmental damage.
Is this ingredient an exfoliant?
Retinol is not the same as an exfoliant for the skin because it does not remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin as, for example, exfoliating acids do. Instead, the small molecules stimulate rapid cell renewal from deeper layers of the skin. The rapid cell turnover inevitably results in the faster removal of dead skin cells on the surface of the skin over time, so it can be said to work in a similar way to exfoliation, but with a slightly different effect to conventional exfoliation.
How and when to use it?
This active ingredient should be used to the skin gradually, so if you are using it for the first time, choose the lowest concentration and get used to it by using it 1-2 times a week at first. Once your skin is used to it, you can increase to 3-5 times a week or as recommended by the manufacturer or a professional.
Use retinol products for the face only in the evening routine. In the morning and during the day, be sure to protect your skin with a sunscreen (min. SPF50).
Although it has been argued that the use of this active ingredient should be discontinued during the warm season, this is not necessary if you conscientiously use a high broad spectrum sunscreen and otherwise protect your skin from direct sunlight.
What are the possible side effects of using this ingredient?
After starting to use retinol, you may notice some signs of skin irritation due to increased cell turnover. Signs that may occur include:
- Dryness of the skin
- Redness
- Itching
- Dandruff
- Scaling
These side effects are most common with stronger retinoids. However, you may also experience them with retinol. These side effects usually disappear after a few weeks of use. If you do not notice any improvement after a longer period of time, it is recommended that you discontinue use and consult a specialist.
It is also very important to avoid prolonged exposure to the sun when using products with this active ingredient, and it is essential to use a sunscreen of at least SPF 50 at all times. It is necessary to renew the protection every few hours during the day.
Who is not recommended for use?
Products containing retinol are not recommended for use at a very young age. Retinol creams or other products should also be avoided when planning a pregnancy, during pregnancy and while nursing. Instead of this active ingredient, you can try products with baculol, which has a similar effect, but is safe to use during both pregnancy and lactation. If you have very sensitive skin or suffer from eczema, dermatitis or other serious conditions, you should consult a specialist.
Which active ingredients should not be used together?
Products containing retinol should not be used at the same time as AHAs and BHAs, benzoyl peroxide and vitamin C. If these ingredients are used one after the other, the skin may become red, irritated and over-dried.
If there is a need, these ingredients can be used alternately on different days.
How long does it take to see results?
Most studies show that on average it takes about 12 weeks to see the first results from retinol.
How do I choose the right product?
As mentioned above, there are a variety of retinol serums, creams/gels/lotions available with retinol, so consider the other ingredients and the concentration of retinol in the product when choosing.
In our range you will find COSRX retinol cream, which is perfect for beginners. This product is more suitable for those who want to reduce the signs of ageing. And for those looking for a product with this active ingredient for problematic skin, we recommend CeraVe Serum with Retinol. This product is designed to combat problem skin, rashes and acne blemishes.
